1997 to 2003 – a historical period in time where the world of Fashion had the privilege of being spectators to one of the most innovative, timeless collaboration yet. For a brand which is known for its bold and exaggerated choices in make-up as well as clothes for fashion shows, this partnership enabled the public to acknowledge but more so appreciate this Belgium designer’s distinctive talent.
Margiela: Les Années Hermès focused on the natural beauty of women of all ages. It’s focal point for his designs were to exude comfortability, maturity and poise in the subtlest way possible. The exhibition not only strongly reflects those three characteristics that the two brands were going for, but it educates you on how hands on Margiela was with fabrics.
Martin Margiela designed garments to appropriately fit the woman’s body as well as her age, and not the other way round. In order to keep the garments and the presentation of the collection the centre of attention, the model’s faces were covered whilst on the runway. Even his own brand label was left blank.
Inspired from a classical sailor’s uniform, although the very deep v-neck sweater seemed simple to design; it included a great level of tailoring skills for the production of these varied V-neck vetements.
Given that it was a collaboration with Hermès, it only made sense to match the demographic of the brand’s audience by entirely using older, mature women. In contrast to his own collection, Margiela’s choice of casting for this collaboration always remained natural and simple. Let us not forget Hermès’ involvement with its signature colour.
Martin was very much fond of the western male look and played on that by deconstructing and reconstructing. This was most popular with the male trench coats.
Double coat- porté par deux-
The ‘Porté par deux’ look played on with the two layers of coats. They were mainly accompanied by a cashmere turtle neck sweatshirt- a blatant favourite of the eccentric designer.
Deconstructing And Reconstructing
The reversal of the insides and outside part of the clothing- It displayed his talent and fascination for creating the inside of a garment; and making it look absolutely ordinary to wear.
Whilst working with Hermès, he learned to appreciate and work with certain fabrics in more depth such as leather and cashmere. Many of his Autumn/Winter collections possessed those two materials.
Martin played with the transformation of the coat, giving it different uses and thus making it versatile.
After a few Seasons in, Martin expanded his creativity by adding evening wear- but it was nothing of the ordinary of course. He used unusual elements to put together these elegant ensembles; demonstrating his amazing craftsmanship and tailoring skills.
It was clear that Martin Margiela had great patience and adoration for appointing and assembling unusual and odd fabrics together; which always seemed to work effortlessly. The more background knowledge you have on renowned designers such as Margiela; the greater respect for their work. His unusual yet unique locations and collections still make this fashion designer the talk of the century.
I hope you enjoyed this post. Don’t forget to subscribe and comment! X